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Calle Brewery: Craft beer in an ancestral home in Vigan

Every tourist town needs a proper craft beer joint and in the heritage city of Vigan in Ilocos Sur, one unique watering hole you can visit is Calle Brewery. The Spanish colonial town, one of the country’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is well-known for its homegrown restaurants serving authentic Ilocano cuisine. Established in March 2018, Calle Brewery offers a relatively new spot in Vigan where tourists can enjoy craft beer and smoked meats in a brewpub converted from a century-old stone house. 

The brewery is just a short walk from the cobblestone streets, historic houses and museums of Calle Crisologo. You can find this pub inside Casa Lourdes, a historic two-story house along Calle Encarnacion. 

With most breweries in the Philippines being very modern and industrial in their design, what makes this place interesting is how the old structure was adapted and reused to fit the needs of a pub and restaurant. I love how Vigan has managed to preserve its old structures for modern use, which you can see in many of the boutique hotels, souvenir shops, cafes, and restaurants around the heritage district. 

Calle Brewery offers craft beers named after some of the country’s national heroes and revolutionaries to fit the historic theme along with unique bar chow with an Ilocano twist. The brewery is said to be powered by the same team behind the Manila-based craft brewery Joe’s Brew. 

They currently serve six varieties on tap, namely: 

For the first four varieties, 350 ml glasses cost P120 each, while 500 ml pints will set you back P180 each. The stronger beers cost P140 (350 ml) to P210 (550 ml). If you want a sampler, a beer flight of four flavors of your choice costs only P180, which isn’t bad considering the price of craft beer in Manila-based pubs. 

I tried a beer flight of the Salakot, Espada, Canyon, and Bigote. The first two were easy to drink and light. The Salakot was smooth with honey, spices, and fruit notes, while the Espada had soft floral and fruit notes with a bit of sharp bitterness. Canyon Pale Ale had a more citrus-like aroma with hints of grapefruit and strong caramel malt. The strongest, Bigote had a hoppier taste with some citrus and tropical notes.

Aside from craft beer, Calle Brewery serves a selection of smoked meats and fresh seafood. Diners can order BBQ Plates with either one or two meat plate combos (150g of meat) per plate or BBQ sandwiches, with their choice of meat and sides. 

The choices of smoked meats include Pork Belly, Beef Burnt Ends, Smoked Chicken, Sausage Hot Links, and Smoked Vigan Longganisa with Premium smoked meats like Pork Baby Back Ribs, Sticky Pork Spare Ribs, and Beef Brisket. Sides include Mashed Potato, Baked Beans, Sauteed Veggies and Buttered Corn. 

All meat plates are served with pickled onion and cucumber, a choice of dirty or plain rice, bibingka cornbread, and a choice of two sides. The sandwiches come with sweet potato buns, coleslaw fries, and pickles.

During our visit, I tried the one-meat plate of smoked chicken with mashed potatoes and buttered veggies. The presentation was interesting as the food was set on a tray with the smoked meat on top of a piece of bread to soak up the oil. Even with just one meat dish, it was pretty filling. I heard the Beef Brisket was their bestseller, but it was sold out.

If you’re not that hungry or have eaten somewhere else already, you can still go here after dinner just for drinks or order lighter bar chow.  Calle Brewery serves a few Ilocano bar snacks like bagnet sisig, bagis (intestines) with pickled onion, and skinny fries with Vigan Longganiza bites for P180 each, as well as Regular Fries, Chili Fries, Peanuts, etc. They also have a few desserts like Peach Cobbler or Chocolate Chip Cookies served with ice cream on top. 

More than the food, what makes this brewery interesting is the place itself. The original ancestral home was built back in 1875 by Don Florendo and Doña Maria Verzosa and was converted into two restaurants with Calle Brewery taking up the ground floor, while the upper floor houses a wine and tapas bar. 

It’s an interesting mix of old and new, as the long bar area has a bit of a steampunk feel, while the rest of the brewpub feels like a traditional heritage restaurant or Spanish wine cellar. There are several different nooks and private parties can be held at the brewery’s dining area, which can fit up to 50 people. One part of the dining space feels more modern and is decked out with a mural with the brewing process, and lots of typical beer signs. There’s also a small souvenir shop with beer-related souvenirs. 

If it’s your first time in Vigan or you’re into craft beer, Calle Brewery is worth checking out for the ambiance or if you want to try someplace new. The place has a lot of character and drinking here feels like you’re drinking in a museum or old-world tavern.

Address: Calle Brewery is located in the G/F of Casa Lourdes, #11 Calle Encarnacion, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.

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