Calle de la Escolta or Escolta Street is one of the oldest and most historic streets in Manila, Philippines. Located in the old downtown district of Binondo, it was once dubbed as “The Queen of Streets.” In fact, Manileños used to flock to Escolta to shop, work, and dine, making it a leading commercial district during the 1800s to the early 1930s.
Escolta is part of the larger Binondo (old Chinatown) area in Manila, which runs parallel to the Pasig River, from Plaza Santa Cruz to Plaza Moraga and Quintin Paredes Street. Though I’ve been going back and forth food-tripping around Binondo, I admit that I’ve overlooked Escolta.
Over the years, the once upmarket department stores, cafes and theatres in the area got run down due to rapid modernization and lost their glamour. But thanks to recent initiatives of artists and the local community, Escolta is enjoying a bit of a renaissance. Old buildings are being reused for new business ideas and events like the Escolta Block Party and weekend festivals are giving locals and tourists a reason to rediscover this side of Old Manila.
The streets of Metro Manila were traffic-free during the last few days of December, so I found myself going on an urban night ride just to check out the newly restored Jones Bridge and on a Sunday breakfast tambike ride to meet up with some members of the Kymco Like 150i community. Here are some of the interesting things I found you can do around Escolta.
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Travel by bike or ferry to get there
Escolta is compact enough to explore in a couple of hours to half a day and can be combined with visits to nearby museums in Manila or food tripping in Binondo. I think this street offers a historic and visually interesting destination for riders and cyclists looking for an alternative place to visit for weekend urban rides. It’s a bit difficult to find parking spaces for cars because of the tight streets and traffic, but is no problem for those traveling on two wheels.
With the revival of the Pasig River Ferry (which is currently offering free rides until January 31, 2020), more tourists can visit this artistic hub. The Escolta River Ferry Station is located right next to Jones Bridge and the street is walking distance from the Carriedo LRT Station, making it easily accessible by public transportation. TIP: According to the security guard on duty, riders can board bikes and e-scooters on the ferry.
Cross the newly restored Jones Bridge
The William A. Jones Memorial Bridge, commonly known as the Jones Bridge, is a historic bridge that spans the Pasig River in the City of Manila, Philippines. The bridge was originally designed by Filipino architect Juan M. Arellano using Neoclassical architecture.
Destroyed during World War II, it was reconstructed with a simpler design in 1946. Just recently in 2019, the City Government of Manila restored the bridge to its near-original design, with ornate lampposts and carvings, which has sparked a new interest among urban adventurers.
While the details are more visible during the day, I think Jones Bridge really looks more romantic at night. In fact, it’s becoming a destination of sorts for pictorials. When we visited, cyclists, riders and even people in cars were stopping along the bridge just to take photos.
Go on a walking tour around historic buildings
Did you know that Escolta is where you can find buildings that housed the first elevator, the first savings bank, and the first ice cream parlor in the country? Escolta’s old buildings are not just historically significant, they’re also architecturally beautiful, with many featuring Art Deco or Necolassical details.
While not all the buildings have stood the test of time and are in danger of demolition, if you’re into classic architecture and photography, you might enjoy doing a quick walking and photography tour around the area. It’s compact enough to explore on foot and buildings are located very near each other. Here are a few notable buildings in the area.
- First United Building – Formerly known as Perez-Samanillo Building, this Art Deco building was designed by Ar. Andres P. Luna, the son of renowned painter Juan N. Luna. It was the tallest building in Manila when it was completed in 1928.
- Regina Building – a Neoclassical and beaux-arts structure built in 1934
- Don Roman Santos Building – Originally built in 1894, this neoclassical building was the original office of Monte de Piedad Savings Bank until 1937. It currently houses a BPI branch.
- Burke Building – Built in the 1920s, this building contains the first elevator built in the Philippines.
- El Hogar Filipino Building – Built in 1914 and designed by Ramon Irureta-Goyena and Francisco Perez-Muñoz, El Hogar’s architecture reflects elements of Neoclassical and Renaissance styles. It is one of two remaining American-era structures in the area facing the Pasig River.
- Capitol Theatre – an Art Deco theatre built during the 1930s. It was designed with a double-balcony by National Artist Juan Nakpil and was considered a rare feat during that era.
- Natividad Building – Designed by Philippine-born Spanish architect Fernando de la Cantera Blondeau, this is an example of beaux-arts architecture. It once housed the Philippine Insurance Commission.
- Commercial Bank & Trust Building – a spaceshiplike building built in 1969 that’s now a BPI bank branch
Step back in time at the Calvo Museum
Built back in 1938, the beaux-arts Calvo Building was designed by Fernando Ocampo and built by Edificio Calvo. The building was the home of the first studio of radio station DZBB until 1957 before moving to Quezon City.
Calvo Building houses the Calvo Museum here, which offers a treasure trove of pre-WWII memorabilia including old photographs, print ads from newspapers, movie posters, and music sheets. It even has a vintage bottle collection including early 1900’s milk, soda, medicine, beer, and liquor bottles. While the museum is pretty small, it’s worth visiting if you’re already in the area for the nostalgia alone. Walking through here feels like you’ve been sucked into a time capsule.
- Address: Muelle Del Banco Nacional, Binondo, Manila, 1006 Metro Manila
- Business hours: Open Mondays to Fridays, 9:00 am to 5:00 pm and Saturdays from 9:00 am to 12:00 noon
- Entrance fees: P50 for adults, P20 for students.
- Contact: To reserve a special tour, call (02)2414762 and (02)2414578.
Shop for unique finds at Hub: Make Lab
The First United Building was previously known as where Berg department store once stood. This building of five floors has undergone adaptive reuse and the ground floor occupied by Hub: Make Lab has become the creative heart of Escolta.
Hub: Make Lab is a collective of artsy shops and establishments selling Old Manila memorabilia, old books, VHS tapes, modern clothes with a Filipiniana twist, vintage postcards, books, vinyl records and other nostalgic and unique items.
You can also find a barbershop, a small community museum, a coffee shop, a bar serving craft beer, a milk tea bar and a co-working space in the same building.
- Address: Hub: Make Lab, First United Building, 413 Escolta Street, Binondo, Manila
- Business hours: Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 11:oo a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Work inside a heritage building
For freelancers and artists looking for a unique co-working space, First Co-Working Community on the fifth floor of the First United Heritage Building offers a quiet nook and a peaceful vibe to write or get creative. The space features sun-lit and well-designed interiors as well as modern conveniences like Fiber optic internet, open desks, a meeting area, lounge area, printer, copier, scanner, and beverages.
- Address: First Co-Working Community, Units 502 and 506, First United Building, Escolta Street, Manila
- Business hours: Open from Monday to Friday 8:00 am – 6:00 pm; Saturdays and Sunday: For reservation. Open for events at nights & weekends by request
- Rates: Co-working: Php 400 Full-day, Php 250 half-day; Meeting table: Php 750 per hour; Events: Php 1,200 per hour; Virtual Office: Php 3,000 per month
- Contact: firstcoworkingmnl@gmail.com or (02) 782-3601
Spot vintage cars and bikes
If you’re lucky, you might just spot some glamorous old vehicles parked right along Escolta. Since late 2019, the community establishments have been hosting group meet-ups of vintage car and bike enthusiasts to showcase and display their vintage vehicles from 7:00 am to 10:00 am every Sunday. There’s no guarantee that you’ll see vehicles on display every week, as these are usually casual meet-ups among owners.
Hunt for street art
The streets around Escolta have been given a bit of a modern and edgy vibe with public street art and murals, which you can easily spot walking around the side streets and alleys. Good spots to check out include the riverside near the Pasig River Ferry Station, Yuchengco Street and Banquero Street.
Dine in local favorites
While there are more places to eat in the other streets of Binondo, there are a handful of homegrown haunts where you can grab a meal in Escolta. UNO Seafood Wharf is a Chinese restaurant in Calvo Building that serves authentic Chinese cuisine and has established itself as a Binondo favorite.
Escolta Ice Cream and Snacks is a hole in the wall joint located in the same spot of Botica Boie, the premier ice cream parlor during the pre-war era. You can get budget-friendly meals here as well as ice cream treats from Big Scoop Ice Cream.
Buy hopia from Polland Bakery
Polland is a popular take-out stall selling Manila’s best hopia or mung bean cakes, a favorite pasalubong item. Established in 1966, Polland’s Escolta branch was among the first to be set up by the popular hopia brand. Aside from hopia (Mongo, Hapon, Kondol, and more), they also sell Jumbo Siopao (P50), Machang (P85), Cuapao (P80), and Fresh Chinese Lumpia (P70).
Hang out at The Den
The Den is a local cafe located on the first floor of the First United Building ideal for coffee connoisseurs and creative minds. They serve full meals such as pasta, rice bowls and waffles, along with specialty coffee.
The Den serves sourced coffee from the Philippines and sells interesting locally made products and artwork. The space also serves as a hub for cultural education through their workshops, talks and cultural events. It’s a nice, quiet spot to hang out over coffee with friends.
Chill out with coffee, cocktails or craft beer
One of the coolest spots here is Fred’s Revolucion, which describes itself as “a home for sincere drinkers.” Located on the first floor of the First United Building, right across The Den, this indie watering hole has the same artsy vibe as its first branch in Cubao X.
Fred’s Revolucion is one of the few places that serves local craft beer on tap in Old Manila. They had beers from Boondocks Brewing, Pampanga-based Pinatubo Craft Brewery, and Craft Revolt during my visit.
They also serve coffee and cocktails, and mainstream local beers to go with their food offerings, appetizers, and breakfast meals.
- Address: Fred’s Revolucion, G/F First United Building, 413 Escolta St, Sta Cruz, Manila
- Business hours: Open Mon – Sat 7 AM – 12 MN and on Sun 7 AM – 12NN
It’s nice to see how the local community is trying to revive this once forgotten area, and how it’s slowly becoming a hub for young artists and entrepreneurs. I hope they continue to preserve the historic structures so more people can experience the nostalgia and glamour of Old Manila.