Food Trip: Zamboanga City (2023)

Zamboanga City’s cuisine is just as festive, colorful and diverse as the culture of the region. Because of their location near the Sulu Sea, you get a variety of fresh seafood. With Zamboanga’s rich history as a former Spanish settlement, Hispanic flavors and food preparation have been infused into dishes.

The presence of ethnic tribes from the Sulu archipelago and the Malay peninsula, known for their use of exotic spices, have added a unique touch to the cuisine that you can’t find anywhere else in the country.

From traditional Filipino and seafood dishes, regional specialties with “a touch of Spanish, American and Asian influences,” to ethnic delicacies, visitors to Zamboanga City are really in for a culinary treat. Here’s my pick of what and where to eat in Zamboanga City from various visits to “Asia’s Latin City” over the years.

Note: This article has been updated from a visit to Zamboanga City in February 2023.

Alavar Seafood Restaurant

Established in 1978, Alavar Seafood Restaurant remains one of the top homegrown restaurants in Zamboanga City, popular with locals and visitors alike. First-time visitors are usually taken here as this fine dining restaurant serves heirloom recipes and Zamboangueño specialties like Curacha, a species of deep-sea crab found in the waters surrounding Zamboanga City.

The seafood dish is topped with the restaurant’s signature Alavar Sauce, a delicious mix of coconut milk and spices that you will want to put on everything you eat. The best way to eat curacha is with your bare hands so you can pick out all the bits of meat hiding underneath the shell & savor every last bit of the sticky, sweet orange goodness from your fingers.

You need to be in a big group to enjoy this (and split the bill) as the servings are good for sharing. As a fan of seafood, I have no complaints eating crabs just plain steamed, but there’s something about the sauce that makes this dish extra-special. Alavar also specializes in Spanish-inspired dishes including Paella Valenciana and Paella Negra.

The Baked Imbao (clams) and green mango served with Bagon con gata, which combines the staple fermented condiment with coconut milk, are both must-tries. The mango really adds a different dimension to all the the rich seafood dishes. Be sure to try the refreshing beverages like Kamias Shake and Zamboanga White, a creamy lychee-based shake that’s very sweet and refreshing.

TRAVEL TIP: Alavar Seafood Restaurant is one of the pricier restaurants in the city and is best for groups because of the family-style servings. For solo travelers and those on a budget, a smaller branch of Alavar at Paseo del Mar serves combo meals where you can get smaller servings of curacha, grilled fish, baked clams, prawns with Alavar sauce and inasal/barbecue dishes.

• Address: Alavar Seafood Restaurant. 173 Don Alfaro Street, Tetuan, Zamboanga City. They also have a smaller branch at Paseo del Mar.
• Facebook: Alavar Seafood Restaurant 
• Contact number: (062) 992 4533

Vista del Mar

Vista del Mar is seaside resort with a two-story restaurant where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the sea and the breeze during your meal. Located near the Yakan Weaving Village, the resto serves heritage recipes using ingredients abundant in the region.

Their take on Deep-Fried Curacha allows guests to crack the crabs open themselves by crushing them between two plates. Curacha is served with their own signature seafood sauce.

Other must-tries here include the Baked imbao or clams, crispy dinuguan (topped with lechon kawali), cucumber lemonade and refreshing Ensalada de Chamba (Chamba Salad), a mix of eggplant, mango, and salted egg that goes great with seafood.

• Address: Vista del Mar. Upper Calarian Zamboanga City.
• Facebook: Vista del Mar
• Contact number: (062) 991-1208

Hacienda de Palmeras

Hacienda de Palmeras is a homegrown restaurant that serves traditional Filipino cuisine as well as Zamboangueño and Asian-inspired dishes. Their main specialty is the knickerbocker, a colorful and refreshing halo-halo like dessert of sliced fruits and gelatin topped with strawberry ice cream.

Hacienda de Palmeras also serves traditional Filipino and local specialties good for groups like crispy pata, seafood mix with oyster sauce, and sinigang.

Baked Imbao, a type of mangrove clam, that’s usually topped with butter and garlic. The meat of the clam is naturally sweet. Great for an appetizer.

• Address: Pasonanca Road, Barangay Sta. Maria, Zamboanga City
• Facebook: Hacienda de Palmeras Hotel & Restaurant
• Contact number: (062) 991 3284

Dennis Coffee Garden

Moro cuisine of the Sulu Archipelago (which covers the provinces of Sulu, Basilan, Tawi-Tawi and the southern tip of the Zamboanga Peninsula and Palawan) is full of rich and exotic flavors.

For a taste of Authentic Sulu food and culture, Dennis Coffee Garden is a great choice. This restaurant, which originated in Jolo, Sulu in 1962, serves excellent Tausug dishes.  Their Dulang (set meals good for 5 persons) are served with rice, cucumber and sambal. Specialties include the Chicken Pianggang (chicken marinated in choice spices), Beef Kulma (beef cubes in mild curry paste), Tiula Itum (beef in broth of roasted coconut and spices), Utak-Utak (fried fish cakes)

They also celebrate Sulu coffee culture by pairing kahawa sug (Sulu’s best coffee) with native pastries on small plates collectively called Bangbang. This includes Jualan saing (deep fried bananas served with a tasty dip), Daral (moisture-rich crepe with sweet coconut filling), Pulihmandi (purple rice balls rolled on coconut flakes), Panggi-Panggi (soft and chewy flour rings) and apam (Sulu’s native pancake). Don’t leave without trying the pastil, hand pies with togue served with sweet spicy sauce! This was so good.

• Address: San Jose Road, Baliwasan, Zamboanga City
• Facebook: Dennis Coffee Garden
• Contact number: +63 995 820 6642 | +63 62 957 1131

Bay Tal Mal

Bay Tal Mal, which originated in the Municipality of Maluso, Basilan Province serves Moro dishes prepared in traditional way and served in cultural style. The name of the restaurant is Arabic for Bayt-ul Mal which translates to House of Wealth. It started in Zamboanga City as a coffee shop in 1986 and is currently the only Halal-certified restaurant in the city.

Their signature offering is the Latal or a plateful of Tausug dishes good for 2-3 people. This includes specialties such as Tiyulah Itum, Beef Piyassak, Beef Kulma / Bay Tal Mal Beef Adobo, Chicken Pianggang, Chicken Kiyaliya, Kiyaliya Kapaya / Nangkah, Cucumber w/ Sambal, Calamares and Fried Fish.

The whole fried chicken topped on Sambal rice is another must-try!

• Facebook: Bay Tal Mal
• Address: Mayor Jaldon St. Canelar, Zamboanga City (they also have a branch in SM Zamboanga)
• Contact number: Call 0915 016 0448

Craft Kitchen Zamboanga

Craft Kitchen is a new restaurant converted from an old heritage house in Zamboanga City. It’s located along the San Jose Road intersection near the airport and Garden Orchid Hotel (across Dennis Coffee Garden). 

The restaurant, which was established during the pandemic, serves a mix of traditional Filipino, Asian and Western Fare like Beef with Brocolli, Crispy Tadyang, Chop Suey, etc. Aside from the main dining space set within the ground floor of a heritage house, there are several cozy nooks for dining, and lots of IG-friendly photo spots for visitors. The space is bike-friendly since there’s secure parking ang al fresco seating. 

• Address: San Jose Road, Corner Baliwasan Chico Road, Zamboanga
• Facebook: Craft Kitchen Zamboanga  
• Contact number: 0966-3977628

Casa Velyn

Established in 2016, Casa Velyn is a family-run establishment offering regional Filipino Cuisine and Spanish Inspired Dishes. The main restaurant is located along Pasonanca Road (on the way to the Pasonanca Tree House and Park). 

But in case you don’t have time for sightseeing, they also have a branch in the newly opened SM Zamboanga (opened in 2021). Food specialties here include paella, shrimp gambas, tinola, and more. 

• Address: W3JC+R85, Zamboanga, Zamboanga del Sur
• Facebook: Casa Velyn – https://www.facebook.com/casavelyn 
• Contact number: (062) 9574215

Satti

Sati Ayam or Satti is a local favorite of barbecued meat similar to the Malaysian satay. You can find this in places like Andy’s Satti, Johnny’s Morning Sun Satti and Jimmy’s Satti, humble roadside eateries that deliver big on flavor.

Satti is served with chunks of rice similar to those prepared inpuso (rice wrapped in coconut leaves minus the leaves). The rice has very fine, chewy texture as if it’s been compacted, and you can’t distinguish between the individual rice kernels. A thick spicy sauce is poured over the whole dish like soup or gravy.

This is a great meal if you’re on a budget since 3 sticks plus rice costs only P25.00. Be sure to order softdrinks or have lots of water ready since it’s pretty spicy.

Paseo del Mar

The whole area of Paseo del Mar is a seaside boulevard and outdoor food park popular with locals and tourists. You can find a lot of small outdoor stalls here serving a variety of dishes at night. This is a pleasant spot for afternoon snacks, dinner and drinks. Bistro at Paseo del Mar serves pasta dishes, fusion food and affordable platters suitable for big groups.

Locals indulge in street food like isaw and tempura here.

For those who won’t be going to Hacienda de Palmeras, you can get smaller snack size servings of the Knickerbocker at Pinoy Patio (Palmeras).

Bar Code

Bar Code is a popular local hangout where you can enjoy live music at night, drinks and bar chow. Although they specialize in popular Filipino food, they also have a few Tausug dishes like chicken piangang, tiula itum soup and beef kulma.

They have two branches including an outdoor restaurant at Paseo del Mar, the seaside boulevard.

• Address: Rizal Street & Paseo del Mar, Zamboanga City
• Facebook: Bar Code Zamboanga

Harley’s Food + Craft Beer*

Harley’s is a motorcycle-themed pub that serves Asian Halal food with a pub serving an array of local craft beer from Mindanao. They carry the same variants of Fat Pauly’s Handcrafted Ales and Lagers from Iligan City including Lumad Steam Lager, Diwata White Wheat Ale (which uses zest of local lime “Biasong” and crushed peppercorns) and Sultan coffee stout (infused with ground arabica from Bukidnon and Cotabato).

One unique brew on the menu was El Chonggo Blanco White Wheat Ale, a special brew for Zamboangueños infused with a hint of cloves, oranges and bananas. We also go to try the seasonal specials: Guava Lambic and Malagos Beer (with Malagos chocolate from Davao). The price is reasonable with a beer flight of 4 500ml glasses at just Php 225.

• Address: Yubenco, Tetuan Zamboanga City
• Facebook: Harley’s Food and Craft Beers
• Contact number: +63 917 727 0406

Country Chicken Restaurant

Country Chicken Restaurant is one of the older establishments in the city, having been around since the 1970s. This homey family-style restaurant serves a variety of American, Italian and Filipino dishes like thin-crust pizzas and crispy pata.

Their Spanish-Filipino specialties include seafood paella and really delicious callos.

• Address: KM 4 Pasonanca Road, Pasonanca, Zamboanga City
• Facebook: Country Chicken Restaurant
• Contact number: (062) 991 1852

Tsokolate Cafe

For those looking for a homegrown coffee shop, Tsokolate Restaurant is a charming café that showcases some pop culture and vintage music memorabilia. The cafe serves very affordable food and has a cool vibe, making this place great to hang out for afternoon snacks, desserts and coffee.

They have a few desktops and laptops for rent (P30/hour) for those who want to check mail but didn’t bring gadgets. Breakfast meals start at P50, brewed coffee is P28 and hot chocolate is P24. Lunch is served from 10am-2pm while grilled specialties are served from 4pm-6pm. Slices of cakes here are about P40-60 while cream puffs and eclairs are just P8.50 each! Great budget-friendly place.

• Address: #18 NS Valderosa St., Zamboanga City
• Contact number: (062) 992-5168‎

Seafood specialties

Aside from the usual dine0in restaurants, nothing beats enjoying seafood right at the beach. If you’re visiting the Greater Sta. Cruz Island, also known as the “Pink Sand Beach” because of its pinkish coralline sand, get ready for a seafood overload of specialties like curacha, grilled squid, shrimps, fish and freshly harvested lato (seaweed).

For a unique treat, try oko-oko, rice cooked in sea urchin, typically prepared by the Sama Banguingui tribe.

For the more adventurous, you can also try snails, locally called “chupa kulo” cooked in coconut milk and squash. The only way to get the meat from the snails is to suck it out of one side of the shell’s opening. Some locals were having a “chupa kulo” eating contest when we were on the island 🙂

If you’re just in the city, you can still get fresh seafood cooked the way you want in Hai San Seafood Market and Restaurant, a dampa-style restaurant specializing mostly in Chinese dishes. They have a wide selection of raw seafood like fish, crabs, shellfish, prawns, squid, shrimp, fish and shellfish that you can have cooked. They don’t have a fixed menu and prices vary according to the size of the dish and how it’s prepared.

A lot of visitors to Zamboanga City buy fresh seafood to take home as pasalubong. You can buy curacha at the wet market in Guiwan Flea market cost about P450/kilo during my visit. Another thing you can buy at the market – lobster! But the larger ones can set you back P1,000/kilo. You will need to buy a styrofoam cooler (available in markets) and have to check it during your flight to transport the seafood.

You can also buy frozen packs of the Alavar sauce for P150 for 1/2 kilo (P300 per kilo) and jars of Bagon con Gata for P90 per jar.

TIP: For those based in Manila who really want Alavar Sauce, the products (including cooked curacha in sauce) are sold in Alavar Products Manila in the Quezon City. They also serve food at the Salcedo market every Saturday in Makati from 7am to 2pm and Sunday at the Legazpi market in Makati.

Local Muslim delicacies

If you’re visiting mosques, you may have a chance to try some Muslim delicacies which are typically served during special occasions.

Some of these include baulu mamon (2 variants of mini muffins; light colored ones are made from flour & white sugar while the darker one is made from browned rice flour & muscovado); pitis patani (glutinous rice cake with bucayo or caramelized coconut, and muscovado); kaling (deep-fried pretzel); panganan (deep-fried soft pretzel made with browned corn flour); panyam or panyalam (deep-fried rice flour pancake, with muscovado and coconut milk).

Lokot-lokot are biscuit rolls made with fried strands of rice flour batter usually served during special occasions such as the “Hariraya” or the feast of the Eid-il-Fitr, which celebrates the end of the fasting month of Ramadan. You can also buy packaged products of these as pasalubong.

Some of the snacks are available from Dennis Coffee Garden along with packs of Kahawa Sug or Sulu Coffee.

For more information on Zamboanga City, visit www.zamboanga.gov.ph. Thanks to Travel Trilogy for the invite for the last festival!