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Travel Guide: Biking in Batanes

Kara Santos

Bike tourism has really boomed in the Philippines during the pandemic. While most of us living in cities have had to content ourselves with urban rides the past few months, there are loads of beautiful places in the Philippines perfect for biking. The thought of being able to bike through coastal and mountain roads in island provinces is something I’m looking forward to doing once we can all travel freely again. The sad lack of green spaces to bike around Metro Manila got me reminiscing about some of the most amazing destinations in the country that I’ve had the chance to explore by bike, particularly Batanes.

The first time I traveled solo to Batanes, I rented a motorcycle to visit all the attractions in a day. That motorcycle ride around South Batan remains one of the most memorable rides I have ever done in the country. While the distance may not have been that long, in terms of coastal roads and just pure awesomeness of the landscape, Batanes is pretty hard to beat.

But while I loved that solo ride and adventure and meeting new people there, going back to the island with my husband and doing the same island loop on bicycles was even better. Biking around Batanes felt infinitely rewarding. The northernmost island province of the Philippines offers an amazing bucketlist destination for bike touring.

Well-paved coastal roads lead you to otherworldly landscapes at every turn. You appreciate the scenery more when you travel slow and every bend in the road in Batanes offers a spectacular view. For me, the views became even more special because of the personal effort that bike exploration brought and the company the second time around.

Where exactly is Batanes?

Batanes is an archipelago province in the Philippines, geographically part of the Cagayan Valley Region. It is the northernmost province in the country, and also the smallest, both in population and land area. The province comprises ten islands situated within the Luzon Strait between the Babuyan Islands and Taiwan, but only the three largest islands, Batan, Itbayat, and Sabtang are inhabited.

How to get to Batanes

Batanes is only accessible by air travel from Manila, Clark and other smaller airports in Luzon. Flights arrive and depart from Basco on the main Batan Island. Major airlines like Philippine Airlines (PAL), Skyjet, Cebu Pacific & AirSwift fly to Batanes. Flight time is about 1 hour and 45 minutes. While cargo ships bring supplies to the different islands, as of 2020, there are no commercial passenger ferries connecting the mainland Luzon to Batanes.

Top sights to visit in Batanes

Route map for bikers

Though Batanes is the smallest province in the Philippines, there’s a lot to see on the main island and it’s best to soak up the sights slowly to savor everything, which makes exploring by bicycle the perfect option. The coastal roads with steep ascents and uphills are the stuff of biker’s dreams. Because of the island’s compact size, it’s possible to loop the whole Batan island, where Basco is located, in a day.

However, visitors will want to spend more time to cover the geographical areas of North Batan (at least half-day) and South Batan (whole day) to spend quality time in each spot because everything is just so beautiful and you will want to linger. The time it takes you to bike will also depend on your pace, number of stops and the type of bike you’re using (Japanese commuter bikes, which are the most common rental units on the island are very heavy and hard to pedal up steep roads).

What to bring

It’s best to bring your own bicycle, gear, helmet, hydration bag and other cycling gear. While it may cost you a bit more, it is possible to bring your own bicycle on board the plane when traveling to Batanes. The roads are paved and ideal for all types of bikes including mountain bikes, road bikes or folding bikes. You’ll need a proper bike bag or bike box and enough luggage allowance to accommodate your ride. Check out Outside Slacker’s detailed tips on how you can pack your bike for a plane ride.

Bike rental options in Batanes

Alternatively, you can rent or borrow bicycles once you get to Basco, though choices may be limited depending on the number of tourists or if locals are using their bikes. You can rent Japanese commuter bikes from most homestays or hotels or look for shops that rents out mountain bikes. At the time of my visit, mountain bike rentals in Basco cost cost Php 500 per day. Bike rentals are even more limited in Sabtang and Itbayat.

Suggested bike itinerary

There are several possible biking itineraries depending on how much time you have in Batanes. Most first-time visitors would probably be satisfied with the experience biking on Batan Island alone. It’s also possible to bring bikes when you cross over by boat to other islands like Sabtang and Itbayat, but make sure you have enough time to spare during your trip. You’ll need to factor in the limited ferry departure options & extra travel time to avoid getting stranded because trips are very weather-dependent.

Here are some suggested biking itineraries you can do in Batanes which you can adjust depending on your preference.

Day 1: Basco + North Batan

Most flights arrive in Basco in the morning. As soon as you arrive, you can check-in to your homestay or hotel, leave bags, and get ready to bike around in the afternoon. If you didn’t bring your own bike, this is the time to find a good rental unit you can use for the next few days. There aren’t a lot of dining options scattered around the island, so it’s best to take meals in the Basco town proper. Check out my previous travel guide on where you stay and eat on the island.

North Batan sightseeing tours usually take visitors to Naidi Hills, Basco Lighthouse, Vayang Rolling Hills, Japanese Tunnels, Fundacion Pacita, Chadpipan Boulder Beach, Valugan Boulder Beach, PAG-ASA weather station, Tukon Hills, and Tukon Chapel.

On our first day, the only bicycle I was able to rent was a Japanese commuter bike, which is widely used by locals for short distances, but is not the best choice for steep roads. Still, whatever bike you’re riding, you can still get to your destination and enjoy the view.

For bikers going around on their own, the most accessible and rewarding highlights would be the road leading to Naidi Hills and Basco Lighthouse, which has stunning views of Mt. Iraya in the background, Vayang Rolling Hills, and the downhill road to Chadpipan Boulder Beach.

We spent some time just enjoying the view at the Basco Lighthouse and Vayang Rolling Hills before heading to the steep downhill road leading to Chadpipan Boulder Beach which offers a great sunset view.

Bikers can also bike up to Fundacion Pacita, but access to the hotel, resort and restaurant can be limited to outside visitors.

Other landmarks you can to bike to include Tukon Chapel, the Pag-ASA weather station, Japanese tunnels and Valugan Boulder Beach past the airport on the other side of the island.

Day 2: South Batan Loop

After finding a more suitable mountain bike rental unit, we resumed our second day of biking, leaving Basco around mid-morning after breakfast. The weather during April was quite hot, but the sea breeze and landscapes made the ride quite pleasant. You can opt to go clockwise or counter-clockwise on the South loop of the island. The towns located on Batan Island are: Basco, Mahatao, Ivana, and Uyugan. .

We went clockwise passing Mahatao and headed towards Tayid Lighthouse and Marlboro Hills first before passing through Uyugan, Ivana and back to Mahatao and Basco.

There are a lot of places where bikers can just stop and enjoy the view right along the road, including the Chawa View Deck, Mahatao Boat Shelter Port, Spaniard’s Blue Lagoon and White Beach in Maydangeb.

But the most iconic view of Batanes is Racuh a Payaman, also known as Marlboro Country. With rolling hills, animals grazing on the pasturelands, the view of the vast blue sea and mountains and a lighthouse in the distance nestled within hedgerows, this spot offers the most postcard-worthy views.

A detour from the road will take you to the Diura Fishing Village, a sleepy village in the eastern part of Mahatao town where fishermen still practice the traditional fishing for Arayu (dorado). 

You can also bike up to the Tayid Lighthouse in Mahatao which offers another great view of the Pacific Ocean well as the other part of the Batan Island and its rugged mountains cliffs facing the South China Sea. 

But bikers know that beyond the landmarks, it’s the entire journey that makes the ride. The amazing mountain roads offers a sense of pure freedom and random road stops to rest and drink give you an opportunity to watch locals go about their business.

Imnajbu Road Cliffs with a view of the Alapad Rock Formations is another great spot. This area offers a really great view of a hill curved by wind, rain and time. The town of Imnajbu is rugged, with ranges of rocky hills stretching from Itbud to the south and Mahatao to the North.

The Ruins of Songsong can be found in the town of Uyugan, located in the
southeast corner of Batan Island. Along the road to Itbud are ruins of an old settlement that was ravaged by a tsunami in 1953 and 1954. From the beach, you can get a view of the coastal road going up the hill.

In the town of Ivana, you can bike past traditional stone houses, including the House of Dakay originally built in 1877 and the Spanish Bridge, an old stone bridge built during the Spanish period that is still being used today. 

It’s also here where you can find the Honesty Coffee Shop, a small unmanned store which is left open for anyone to buy whatever they need from it. This is a great last pit stop for snacks and coffee before biking back to Basco.

Overall, distance-wise Batanes may not be the longest, most epic ride for your Strava, but the raw beauty of the destination alone makes this one of the best biking destinations in the country (in my opinion).

Day 3: Sabtang Island

For those who want to bike around Sabtang Island as well, you’ll need to wake up extra early to bike to the port in Ivana to catch the boat to the island.

For a half-day Sabtang Island tour, you can bike to the Eastern part of the island including Savidug Village, St. Thomas Aquinas Chapel, Chamantad Cove and Tinyan Viewpoint, Chavayan, Sta. Rosa de Lima Chapel, San Vicente Ferrer Church, Sabtang Lighthouse, Morong beach and Makabuang Arch. If you’re only doing a day trip, you’ll need to catch ferry back to Batan Island after lunch.

I highly recommend you stay at least overnight and catch the ferry the next morning or afternoon instead to maximize biking time on Sabtang Island. You can stay at the lighthouse near the port. You can use the extra time in the afternoon to bike to the Western part of Sabtang Island including Nakanmuang, Sumnanga Fishing Village and Duvek Beach.

As of my last visit in 2016, the paved road ends at Sumnanga. While locals have a shortcut through the mountains leading from Sumnanga to Chavayan, the path is still very steep and difficult for mountain bikes to pass, so the island is not completely loop-able just yet.

For more details on where to stay and eat if you’re staying overnight on Sabtang, check out my Travel Guide: Sabtang Island. Plus, here’s Outside Slacker’s account of Solo Biking in Sabtang Island.

Day 4: Basco

After catching the ferry back to Basco, you can settle back in your resort or take it easy at any of the spots you previously visited or take the chance to go on a post-biking food trip to the restaurants in town. Basco Lighthouse also offers a great place to watch the sunset.

Optional: Itbayat

The island of Itbayat is more rugged than Batan and Sabtang and potentially offers an amazing destination for bikers. However, you will need more time to visit the island and the roads there are extremely steep with most destinations more suitable for hiking rather than biking. You can check out my longer post – Travel Guide: Itbayat.

Travel tips and useful info

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