Bohol by Motorcycle Part 2: Road trip to Anda & back

Anda is a small peninsula located in the Eastern tip of the island province of Bohol in the Philippines. Located roughly 100 kilometers, or three hours by public transportation from capital Tagbilaran City, Anda remains off the main tourist circuit. I heard from other travel bloggers that the place has a great beach and is not as crowded as Panglao Island.

bohol by motorcycle anda white beach travelup scooter
So on my last day in Bohol, I decided to ride there on a rented scooter. While looking at the route on Googlemaps, the long coastal road called out to me. From Baclayon, this involved traversing the Bohol-Circumferential Road passing through numerous towns.

Day 3: Baclayon – Loay – Lila – Dimiao – Valencia – Garcia Hernandez – Jagna – Duero – Guindulman – Anda (and back the same route) (93.4 km x 2 = 186.8 km)

bohol by motorcycle route map day 3

I had visited most of the “must see” sights in Bohol the previous day. For first-timers, top attractions include climbing up a view deck to get a good view of the Chocolate Hills (one of the country’s most iconic landmarks), seeing tarsiers (the smallest primate) up close, passing through a man-made forest, cruising along the Loboc River and eating a meal at the Bohol Bee Farm.

READ MORE: Bohol by Motorcycle (Part 1)

bohol by motorcycle coastal road scooter ocean

While the tour was nice, I wanted to get away from the hordes of tourists all doing the same thing. I commend Bohol on its ecotourism attractions, but sometimes everything can just feel very neat and packaged. There is little room for serendipity. It’s a completely different experience riding solo and discovering destinations for yourself.

bohol by motorcycle coastal road scooter ocean 2

Another reason I wanted to go to Anda was to get a hold of local craft beer. Trying out different variants of craft beer is a personal sidequest that’s bordering on obsession. Since I arrived, I was looking for a good bar but found only San Miguel and the usual American beers. After Googling “craft beer + Bohol,” the only lead I got was Coco Loco, a new bar located along the white beach in Anda. So yeah, I thought of the trip as a beerhunt to a beach, with a nice scenic ride on the side.

bohol by motorcycle ocean boat waves rocks

bohol by motorcycle anda mountains boat sea

The road from Baclayon to Anda is really scenic. The previous day’s ride was mostly through small towns, rice paddies, some twisties and through the foothills of the Chocolate Hills. But there’s really something about riding right next to ocean. Open road in front of you, sea right beside you, and mountains in the distance. Add to that, almost zero traffic and the general laid-back vibe of towns that haven’t yet been ruined by commercialization.

bohol by motorcycle wrangler open road travelup

Fishermen were casting their nets out on shallow shores. Boats in the distance sailed by on blue waters. Viewdecks constructed along the road offered places for locals to catch a breeze. For miles, it was just me, the open road, the deep blue sea, and a new destination on the horizon.

bohol by motorcycle mountains ocean view coastal road

One sight along the road broke my enjoyment of the scenery. In the town of Garcia Hernandez, there was a strange overpass connecting the mountains over the rice fields and across the road. Upon closer inspection, I saw that it was an elevated conveyor belt labelled Philippine Mining Services Corp – Bohol Mine which led to a building and port on the other side. I know mining has a part to play in the Philippine economy, but it was just sad to see the destruction happening to the mountains in such a beautiful island.

mining in bohol philippine mining service corporation garcia hernandez

A friend from TarShare recommended I try Calamay, one of Bohol’s food specialties. While it can be bought in souvenir shops in Tagbilaran, the best-tasting ones can only be bought in the town of Jagna. Made of ground glutinous rice, coconut milk, and brown sugar, this delicacy is traditionally mixed in a kawa and packaged in coconut husks. There were lots of factories along the road advertising Calamay-making and I bought a small pack (P30/serving) from a vendor on the street. The dark brown mixture has a distinct sweet flavor and sticky consistency.

bohol jagna calamay

From Baclayon, it took me 2 hours to get to Anda at a leisurely pace with photo op stops. Along the road, I noticed a lot of markers pointing to different attractions – waterfalls, beach resorts, diving spots, cave pools, and caves. I heard that some of the caves were even used as a burial place of the ancient Andahanons. Finally, I saw the sign pointing to Coco Loco and White Beach.

coco loco anda bohol philippines

Designed like a typical nipa hut or beach shack, Coco Loco is an alternative café and store that opened just last October 2015. It’s located near the municipal hall and church on a short rough road leading out to the white beach. Displayed tantalizingly on their window sill along with fresh coconuts were bottles of beer from The Cebruery, a Cebu-based microbrewery. Beerhunt successful!

READ MORE: Craft Beer in Bohol: Coco Loco at Anda Beach

bohol by motorcycle chocolate hills porter coco loco anda beach tree

I zeroed in immediately on the Chocolate Hills Porter. What better beer to enjoy in Bohol than one named after its most iconic landmark, right? Named after the famous grass-covered limestone hills, Chocolate Hills Porter is a roasty, dark beer with chocolate notes. I asked to take out the beer to the beach for a better view and settled under a tree in the shade.

travelup craft beer bohol cebruery anda beach

My only view of Alona Beach in Panglao was the shore crowded with boats while I searched for a place to eat on my first night. In contrast, the white beach in Anda was wide open and had only a handful of people. A few foreigners were tanning themselves on the beach, while local kids were playing in the shallow waters. The sight of the clear water and white sand was worth the long drive. Despite the beach being right in front of the church and municipal hall, it was so clean and uncrowded!

bohol by motorcycle anda white beach wide sand bohol by motorcycle anda beach lifeguard tower kid running

bohol by motorcycle anda beach familybohol by motorcycle anda beach churchStrange encounter while I was drinking on the beach. An elderly woman came up to me and started talking to me in the local dialect. I don’t speak Bisaya but what I could understand was that she was not from there, plus the words namatayan (a relative died) and barya (change). I felt guilty for enjoying a beer on the beach and gave her some bills. She seemed very emotional and started crying and thanking me profusely until a local guy hanging out near some tricycles came near. He apologized, saying she was probably mentally ill and sent her on her way. He asked if I wanted to do a tour around Anda to nearby caves and waterfalls. When I told him, I brought a scooter from Baclayon, he suggested I check out some of the sights on my way back.

bohol by motorcycle anda beach floating hut

After lunch in Coco Loco, I just drove around a bit around town and attempted to look for the waterfall, but ended up in a cemetery on the end of a paved narrow road. The path was a trail to the side and locals nearby said that it would be difficult to bring the scooter up.

coco loco bohol ecotourism anda adventures

On the way back, I saw a sign pointing to Cabagnow Cave Pool, and made another detour. Cabagnow Cave Pool is a small but deep swimming hole where you can jump in, but the only way to get out is with a ladder which you can rent (for P150) from a caretaker nearby. A local pointed out the path hidden in a trail near a beach and asked if I wanted to swim. As much as I wanted to, I knew I didn’t have enough time. Maybe next time.

bohol by motorcycle anda beach trail to cave pool

bohol by motorcycle cabagnow cave pool

There were only a handful of locals lounging about near the beach leading to the cave pool. Two women bohol by motorcycle boat beach womanwere taking a dip near the boats.

It was the sight of a dog peacefully wading in the water that got to me. I couldn’t leave Bohol without swimming in the beach. Good thing I purposely wore swimwear under my clothes. I knew that my clothes would be dry anyway by the time I got back to Baclayon, so I stashed by bag beside a boat and jumped in.

bohol by motorcycle dog swimming on beach

Despite the noontime heat, the water just felt so refreshing. My only regret is that my visit was so short. I promised to myself to go back and stay longer. Maybe rent a mountain  bike instead to go to the waterfalls and caves. Two hours later, I was back in Baclayon with just enough time to return the scooter, grab my backpack at the homestay and hop on a jeep to the port. I boarded the Fasctcraft Ferry at 5:29 for the 5:30 departure. The last image I have is the blurry sunset taken from inside the glass window.

bohol by motorcycle anda beach scooter

It may have been a short trip, but that solo ride to Anda was the highlight of my trip. I’m glad to have seen a different side of Bohol. Will definitely stay longer next time.

TRAVEL TIPS & USEFUL INFO:

  • It’s very easy to go around Bohol on a self-guided tour. Allot 1 day if you only plan to visit the main tourist sites. 2-3 days is better to maximize your stay. There are numerous gas stations around the island.
  • Bikes for rent range from fully automatic scooters, semi-automatic scooters, manual motorbikes and sport bikes. Rental includes helmet and insurance.
  • Motorcycle rental in Bohol ranges from P400-P800/day for 24 hours use, excluding cost of gas. You’re expected to load the bikes with a full tank before returning it.
  • I rented the Honda Scoopy (P450/24 hours use) from Hey Joe Motor Bike Rental. They are based in Baclayon but provide free delivery to Tagbilaran City. All motorcycles are new, well-maintained and affordable. Contact Tim for inquiries: 0915-2781949
  • There are also motorbike rental places along Alona Beach in Panglao and Tagbilaran. Mike’s Motorcycle Rentals (http://www.boholmotorcycles.com) is based in Tagbilaran. They can deliver to the pier/seaport or Bohol hotels. Bikes range from P600 to P800 for 24 hour use. Text: 0906-2493199 or email 500.taylor@gmail.com for inquiries.
  • In Anda, you can rent motorbikes (as well as mountain bikes and kayaks) from Anda Adventures. Ask staff at Coco Loco Cafe (http://cocoloco.ph) for details or contact 0916-5092643.

21 thoughts on “Bohol by Motorcycle Part 2: Road trip to Anda & back”

  1. Hi Kara. Great blog. My excitement level went up upon reading this. I haven’t been there but i have a flight booked by end of august this year. I also ride so i might as well try renting a motor bike since I am not that fond of being in tour packages. Anyway, have you, by any chance, tried riding a ferry from that area to manila? The ticket that i booked is just one way sp i was considering of travelling by sea to experience more adventure. Hehe my only concern is do you think the sea is safe during that period? Any tip will be appreciated.
    More power to you and your blog. Have a great day. ?

  2. Hi Rafael, there’s no ferry directly from Bohol to Manila, but you can take a 1-hour ferry from Bohol to Cebu and transfer to the Super Ferry there called 2GO to go back to Manila by sea. Schedules here. The ferry is quite secure and has private cabin rooms like a hotel if you don’t want to stay in the dorm type accommodations. From Bohol, it’s also possible to travel by sea to other small islands like Camiguin and Siquijor, both of which are perfect motorbiking destinations. Hope this helps. 🙂

  3. Hi Kara! You have an inspiring and informative blog! =)

    I just came across your site since we’ll be travelling to Bohol by September and we’ve decided to go on a self-guided tour. This would be our first time in Bohol and I’m wondering if it’s advisable to go on a tour with our 5-year old son. It’ll be my husband and I plus our son. Would it be long distance travel? How about the roads we’ll be passing by? Is it safe? Your thoughts on this please. It will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

  4. Hi Trixia, thanks for the comment. Bohol is probably one of the most tourist-friendly places in the Philippines. The circumferential road and those leading to major tourist spots are very good. Are you planning to do a self-guided tour by motorbike? I was traveling alone and I felt very safe. You could also opt to join van tours if you want to be more secure. The beaches are worth staying a few days so you can go island-hopping or dolphin watching.

  5. Many thanks for a great blog on Bohol. I am reading this here in Wellington Nz. Hopefully i can sneak a visit when we go home this Dec.

    Continue writing great and fascinating blogs.

    Alex

  6. Hello maam…about the expenses for 3 days and 2 nyts how much?hehe all in all?hehe thanks..

  7. I think I spent roughly P1,500 per day. P400 for the scooter rental, P600/night for the room (with free breakfast). Tapos lunch/dinner & entrance fees depende na sayo yun. Magastos ako sa pagkain & beer, but you can save on that.

  8. Inspiring! Planning to solo ride this coming April 2017. After anda beach are there any good places to stay north of the island?

  9. Thanks, Anthony. I wasn’t really able to explore the North part of Bohol. Most of the hotels are really concentrated in Tagbiliran and Panglao, with a few in the Anda area. If you want something less touristy, you might want to check out Nuts Huts. 🙂

  10. Hi Kara! Doing a solo trip for the first time. and im really excited to rent a scooter and go around Bohol. To be honest, I have not had any experience riding one yet. Is it easy? do-able? haha

  11. Hello Marie. Not to sound like a killjoy, but I’m going to advise you to find a friend who knows how to drive and get them to teach you first before you embark on a solo trip and try riding alone somewhere. I know people who’ve gotten into accidents because it was their first time trying to drive a motorbike. Read this. The roads in Bohol are paved, but there are some areas (ex. going up to Chocolate Hills viewdeck, etc.) and the highway where a lot of accidents happen or could be challenging for first-time drivers. Learning how to drive a scooter is easy enough if you know how to ride a bicycle, but there are many other factors involved when it comes to actually driving (other vehicles on the road, weather, potholes, etc.)

  12. WOW.. I was thinking to myself.. would I be crazy to hire an automatic scooter for 5 days on Bohol and drive myself from the ferry to Anda.. And then I found your blog.. I am super looking forward to it now!
    One question, did yuo find it easy to find gas on the way?
    Thanks

  13. Hi Sarah. Yes, there are gas stations along the road from Tagbilaran to Anda. I remember refueling in Jagna just to be safe. You can also find people selling gas in softdrinks bottles along the road in case you ever run out. I highly recommend riding to Anda and for exploring the sites since you’ll have more freedom getting around Bohol. Enjoy! 🙂

  14. Gald I stumbled on your blog post Ms. Kara! Since you use a motorbike for your whole tour around Bohol. Are traffic enforcers (if any) strict on having a license? We wanted to do the tour by ourselves but hesitant because of this. Thank you.

  15. Hi Jay. I didn’t encounter any traffic enforcers when I rode around Bohol (ang saya diba?!) 😛 BUT you have to show your license to rent a motorcycle there. The shops that rent bikes out need to take a photo of it for reference. So I suggest that whoever wants to rent bikes there has a license and knows how to drive. 🙂

  16. Thank you for the fast response! It seems like you knew that I am currently on a last minute planning. (didn’t realize it early na this week na pala ang Bohol namin. Haha 😀 ). Oh, then it might be impossible for us to rent one. 🙁 I guess, habal habal is the way to go. Do you have any idea how much it will cost if we’ll do the usual countryside tour (this should be on blog post part 1, pero dito ko na itatanong) ? Thanks again!

  17. I think motorbike rental for the whole day in Bohol including gas and the driver fee costs something like P1200/day for a countryside tour. Mas mura pa rin if you just drive on your own because you can rent a scooter for P400/day (kasya na 2 dun) + P100 for full tank of gas. Not sure how strict other shops are there regarding the license for renting. Enjoy your trip!

  18. Hello Kara! very informative thank you.
    I would just like to ask if you know if there are motorbike rental shops that doesn’t require license? thank you.

  19. Hi Shayne. I do not want to condone people renting motorcycles in provinces without having a valid driver’s license. A lot of tourists get into accidents because they rent motorcycles and try to drive around on their own without prior driving experience. I highly recommend you get a license first 🙂

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