Glittering blue-green waters and lush hills welcome visitors to the island of Siquijor. Formerly shrouded in stories of occult and witchcraft, Siquijor has a way of leaving travelers spellbound in a different way.
It’s been over a decade since I first visited and motorcycled solo around ‘the mystic island.’ Yet visions of the lonely tree-lined forest paths, the quiet coastal roads and empty beach coves still linger in my mind.
Siquijor is the second-smallest province in the Philippines. The island has a circumferential road of 72 kilometers, compact enough to circle in 2 to 3 hours on a leisurely ride, or less if you just blaze through. Public transportation is scarce in some areas and sites are scattered far apart. For this reason, circling Siquijor by scooter is the best way for solo travelers to explore the island.
Motorcycle rentals are conveniently located right outside the Siquijor port for tourists and my eyes immediately lock on a row of Yamaha Fazzios. I find that Fazzios cost P550/per day to rent (similar to Honda Giornos), while Honda XRMs, PCXs, ADVs and other models are slightly lower at P350-P400/day.
“Mas mabenta kasi sa mga Tagalog galing Maynila,” one rental shopkeeper tells me, which I find amusing. He says foreign tourists usually pick cheaper scooter models for longer stays or bigger bikes because of their height, but scooters are top picks for casual tourists.
The shop ISLAs Vehicle Rental gives me a discounted rate of P400/per day for the Fazzio unit, since it’s the low season. I simply show my license, sign a waiver, pay for one day (with the possibility of an extension), and I’m good to go.
Having used a Fazzio before for a couple of weeks for a scooter review, I picked it since it’s easy to drive, fuel-efficient and I can stash my backpack on the floorboard while driving around.
Tricycle rides from Siquijor Port to most hotels in San Juan typically cost P350 (one-way) while coastal tours can cost P1,800 for 1-4 people/per day. Having a scooter at my disposal feels like a good deal while traveling solo. The shop also rents out cars, vans, and tuk-tuks for those who can’t drive motorcycles.
As a callback to my earlier backpacker days, I have no confirmed hotel booked or clear itinerary for this solo non-work trip. I’ve decided to wing it, though I’ve bookmarked a few possibilities on GoogleMaps.
I drive towards Republika Beach Bar, a dive resort which I saw online has a bamboo cottage fan room beside a cocktail bar for P1,800/night.
The bar was originally built in 2017, but like many resorts around the country, it was forced to close during the COVID pandemic. After getting hit by a typhoon in 2021, followed by a termite infestation (just some of the challenges of tropical island living), the bar and accommodations were completed and reopened between October and December 2023.
The bamboo cottage isn’t available, but the bar staff referred me to their partner resort Baha Ba’r (which I was planning to visit for dinner anyway), which has a garden aircon room available if I can wait until the previous guest checks out at 5pm.
I switch my laptop on and “try” to get some work done over late lunch at Republika. But the sight of Apo Island framed by coconut trees on the horizon looks more enticing than my screen. It’s a pleasant place to escape the afternoon heat before I can check in next door.
The Gumamela Cottage Room at Baha Bar, just a few steps from the beach, is worth the wait. The lovely garden room features hardwood floors, native lamps, and paintings by local artists. Similar paintings can be found in a small gallery below the main bar and Lokal Art Gallery across the street.
I feel slightly guilty to be staying in such luxurious quarters on a solo trip. I’m used to roughing it out in more basic rooms when I travel solo, especially if intend to spend most of the time outdoors anyway. But this is the type of place I’d pick for a vacation if I was traveling with my husband or friends.
The room normally costs P3,000/night but is offered to me at a discounted rate of P2,000/night. Ah, the perks of traveling during the low season.
As a craft beer enthusiast, I immediately love the vibe at Baha Ba’r. Who wouldn’t want to stay on the premises of the first (and only) microbrewery in Siquijor? Aside from brewing their own beer, they carry beers and use spirits from different regions across the Philippines in their cocktails.
Shedding my slippers at the foot of the stairs, next to a row of scattered flip-flops, sandals and sneakers, I climb barefoot to the second floor and find myself in a gorgeous hacienda-style all-wood bar and restaurant.
Baha Bar takes inspiration from Cang-Isok House, a ramshackle coastal house that’s considered a local landmark. According to the bar’s history, owners reimagined the design, combining details with a sugar baron’s mansion in Negros Island and some Spanish influence for a “reimagined fusion” reflecting island wood designs.
The restaurant and bar make use of different types of locally sourced wood. Mahogany (the main wood construction material) makes up the main structure. The large doors and windows on either side at the front by the road are made of Tugas or Molave, a native hardwood.
The balcony floor overlooking the garden is made of old coconut, while the whiter dining tables are made from Gmelina, a fast-growing wood commonly used in carpentry and plantations.
The space features lounge chairs, a book nook with several Lonely Planet books, plus a couple of friendly cats and dogs walking around. There’s solo-friendly seating along a long bar counter overlooking the garden. From here, you get a great view of the stage where bands perform live music every night. The stage is a treehouse cottage over a parked jeep.
The craft beer bar offers a Stout (4.2%), Pale Ale (5.2%), Lola (5.8%), and IPA (6.5%) on tap with beer flights priced at P250 for 3 shots. A curious-sounding Baha Bar Special Cocktail is listed on the board with a 35%-ish ABV.
The wooden leaderboard next to the bar displays countries that have tried the bar’s drinking challenge. The Philippines is in the lead at 168 shots, closely followed by France at 161. Rounding up the top five are Australia (96), the USA (66) and England (61). Go, Philippines!
Even if you don’t drink, the wooden restaurant is worth visiting for the food and ambiance. Ala carte dishes here (as in most restaurants in Siquijor) range from P250 to P350 per dish. Dishes are based on the Filipina owner’s recipes, growing up in Surigao, Mindanao, and makes use of ingredients from the owner’s own farm, according to the menu. It’s mostly Filipino dishes and seafood with vegetarian/ vegan options available.
For dinner, I ordered a plate of grilled fish of the day, served with a side of veggies and rice. The fish tastes so fresh. It’s grilled to perfection while still juicy, and the vegetables are garnished with a tangy oriental sauce. A friendly black cat weaves around my feet underfoot and keeps me company as I eat. I dined in a few other restaurants over the next few days, but this is by far the best meal I had during my trip.
The song being performed by the live band perfectly sums up the vibe:
Shadows grow so long before my eyes.
And they’re moving across the page.
Suddenly, the day turns into night.
Far away from the city.
Don’t hesitate.
‘Cause your love won’t wait.
My singing voice is terrible, but I can’t help but sing along as I sip on the cold glass of pale ale: “Ooh, baby, I love your way, every day, yeah-eeh-yeah.”
I can’t wait to revisit the rest of the island tomorrow. (August 2025)
NEXT ARTICLE: Siquijor by Scooter: Where to go on an island loop
How to get from Dumaguete to Siquijor:
- Take the ferry from Dumaguete from Siquijor.
- OceanJet (fastcraft) costs P350 with a travel time of 45 minutes.
- Regular fare: P350 (tourist aircon and open air sections)
- Senior & PWD: P250, student: P280, minor: P175.
- Business class: P580 regular, P480 for seniors and PWDs
There are other ferries and Roll-on, roll-off ferries with other skeds
Where to rent scooters in Siquijor:
- ISLA’s Vehicle Rental, Port Area Siqiuijor (offers motorbikes, cars, vans and tukutuk rentals. Driver’s license required)
- Contact number: 0955-8179814 / 0917-8910164
- FB Account: Magie Miano / Jonathan Miano
- Email address: jmiano16@yahoo.com
- Facebook page: ISLAs Vehicle Rental
Where to stay in Siquijor:
Baha Ba’r, San Juan, Maite, Siquijor, 6227 Siquijor, Philippines.